Photographing the Virgen del Carmen Festival in Paucartambo | Perú
It's a chilly night in the southern Peruvian Sierra, but I don't feel the cold.
The joy of the crowds behind and the street bonfires crackle in front of me; locals with elaborate costumes act purgatory scenes as they leap through the flames and perform acrobatic feats, keeping me warm.
People from all over Peru have come to celebrate La Virgen del Carmen; I feel privileged to be here. I don't want to miss a moment and can barely lift my finger from the camera shutter.
Traveling to Paucartambo
A winding road running through small villages belted within the Andes mountains takes you to the almost dormant town of Paucartambo. It takes about four hours to get here from Cusco; the village elevation is around 9,800 ft, so it is higher than Cusco and gets cold at night.
The village is fantastic and still shows much of the Spanish colonial-era architecture. I have been told it is also tranquil, but there is always an exemption... the term quiet is not precisely what I have experienced during my days there on the occasion of the Virgen del Carmen Festivity.
But, before telling the story about the Virgen del Carmen celebrations, let me share some photographs made on the way to Paucartambo. As I always do when traveling or on photo tours, I constantly look for opportunities. Stops on the road, in small villages, and engaging in conversations with the locals in search of unique images to document local culture and customs.
Photographing the Virgen del Carmen Festival
Now back to explain why I am here, the Virgen del Carmen Festival is a yearly religious celebration in this town. Of course, you can also see this festivity in other places in Peru, but nothing compares to Paucartambo.
The festival celebrates the patron saint of the town, Virgen del Carmen, and features traditional music, dance performances, and religious ceremonies for several days.
As I started to get close to Paucartambo, it was clear that this was quite unique; yes, I have several other festivals, but this one is different. People from all over Peru come here. During the festival, the town becomes a hub of activity, the streets are transformed into vibrant pedestrian walkways as vendors set up shops to sell traditional food, souvenirs, and all kind of trinkets. The crowds were overwhelming, and the scene seemed chaotic at first. But promptly realized that "organized chaos" exists, combined with the event's cultural significance and festive atmosphere, is a recipe for a truly unique and unforgettable experience.
Two significant types of crowds participate in the activities, the ones that are coming as "spectators" and the ones that march the streets wearing traditional costumes and masks, almost like on a carnival parade.
The spectators are primarily families with children, young adults, and older adults, most dressed in traditional clothing and ready to participate in the festivities; they populate the sidewalks leaving room for the colorful parades to march down the streets.
Then you have the participants in the parades. The processions during the Festival of the Virgen del Carmen in Paucartambo are known for their elaborate costumes and masks, which are an integral part of the celebration. The festival features several types of costumes and masks, each with its unique design and meaning.
One of the most recognizable costumes is the "saya," which is worn by women and consists of a colorful skirt and blouse decorated with sequins, beads, and other ornaments. The women also wear large hats adorned with flowers and ribbons and hold multicolored parasols.
The "diablada" is another popular costume, this one worn by men and women. The diablada represents a dance between good and evil, with participants dressed as demons and angels. The demon costumes are decorated with horns, wings, and tails, while the angel costumes are adorned with halos and wings.
Another popular costume is the "qhapac qolla" worn by men, representing the indigenous people who lived in the region before the arrival of the Spanish. The qhapac qolla costume features a headdress made of feathers, animal hides, and a colorful poncho and trousers.
The masks worn during the festival are just as elaborate as the costumes. They are often made of paper-mâché or carved from wood and feature intricate designs and bright colors. The masks represent animals, mythical creatures, and historical figures, each with unique symbolism and meaning.
Many participants are indigenous people who come from nearby villages to pay homage to the Virgin Carmen. Others are visitors who are drawn to the event by its reputation for being one of the most authentic and colorful festivals in Peru. Despite the diverse mix of people, the festival brings everyone together in a spirit of joy and celebration.
Overall, the costumes and masks of the Festival of the Virgen del Carmen in Paucartambo are a visual feast, showcasing the region's rich cultural heritage and artistic traditions.
I truthfully had a blast photographing and documenting this unique tradition during the couple of days I spent in Paucartambo.
I photographed around Paucartambo with Fuji GFX 100s and GF lenses.
Contact me if you want to license any of the images or buy prints.
That's all for now; more is coming soon; as always, feel free to drop me a comment and let me know what you think.
